Video Transcript: How to Install HotLine Internal Water Pipe Heaters
Hello, my name is Blair Corder, owner of HotLine Internal Pipe Heater Company. Please use these easy instructions to measure and install your HotLine.
What we’re going to do today is measure for, and install, a HotLine.
What we need to do is put this “T” in so we can get a straight run down into our incoming water line.
I’m going to install an isolation valve, which will be nice in the rare case something happens to the HotLine. It will make it easy to pull it out without having to drain water out of the entire system.
I already have the breaker shut off to the well. If you don’t have a well then you’re going to have to go to the curb stop and shut the curb stop valve off that supplies your house.
This is the valve to the house and to the water heater, so I’m going to turn that off. There’s a spigot right here which is really handy to hook up the drain hose. Then I will drain the unit so I can cut the pipe.
As we’re draining that I’m going to install a valve. The pipe will be a little bit wider. I’m going to have to drill a hole in the floor so the vertical pipe can move out slightly.
I’m going to tighten the valve connector into the existing pipe so I can get a “feel” for where the valve will end up.
Then I will clean the ends of all the pipes to prepare them for soldering.
Now use soldering flux on all connections.
Solder all pipes together.
Use an electricians fish tape to measure the exact length of HotLine for your application.
Do not “walk it off”!
Measuring the length accurately will enable HotLine to custom manufacture your HotLine for maximum effectiveness.
Insert the tape until it hits the Pitless on the side of the well or the Curb Stop.
Wrap some electrical tape around the fish tape where it comes out of the pipe.
Extract the fish tape.
Measure the fish tape with a continuous tape measure to determine the exact length.
I have a HotLine that is measured and manufactured to the exact length that we need.
Place the end of the HotLine in the pipe and start feeding it into the pipe.
Use level winding so the HotLine won’t twist in the pipe.
Wrap joint tape around the threads on the HotLine female connection.
Screw in HotLine to male connector.
Now that our HotLine is installed we need to connect it to the transformer.
Take the cover off the LB (Left-Bottom) of the connector box.
Unscrew gray piece from white piece to expose inside of connector box for easier connecting.
The transformer has a black and a white wire. The white goes to the large ground lug. The black goes to the electrode.
Unscrew the strain relief cap on the back of the connector Box. Run wires through the relief and then through the water-tight gasket.
Use 7⁄16″ wrenches to attach white wire to ground. Use a Phillips screw driver and a ⅜″ wrench to attach the black wire to the electrode.
Make sure wires are tight to prevent arcing and heat loss but try not to bend electrode as you could break its insulation and cause it to short out.
Pull wires back out of box so they don’t touch inside the box and screw on the strain relief finger tight.
Tighten up bottom gray nut to bottom of box.
Put cover back on and tighten screws.
Loosen compression fitting and push HotLine down until it stops.
Re-tighten compression fitting.
Tighten O-ring seal.
Mount the transformer box and plug in the transformer.
If the green light on the lower-right side of the box comes on the transformer is working. The HotLine will start getting warm.